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AR 670-1: Chapter 18: White Mess Uniforms - Male

18-1: Classification

Personnel normally wear these uniforms from April to October, except in clothing zones I and II, where they may wear them year-round (see CTA 50–900). The male white mess uniforms authorized for wear are classified as:

a. The Army white mess uniform (see para 18–2b(1)).
b. The Army white evening mess uniform (see para 18–2b(2)).

18-2: Composition

a. The white mess uniforms referred to in paragraph 18–1 consists of:

(1) Jacket, white mess.
(2) Trousers, black.
(3) Shirt.
(a) White, semiformal, dress, male mess (see para 20–22d).
(b) White, formal, shirt, male evening mess (see para 20–22e).
(4) Necktie.
(a) Bow, black, dress or mess(see para 20–18c).
(b) Bow, white, evening mess (see para 20–18d).
(5) Vest, white, male (see para 20–29).
(6) Cummerbund.
(a) Black (see para 20–10).
(b) White (see para 20–10).
(7) Undergarments (see para 20–28).
(8) Shoes, oxford, black, male (see para 20–23c).
(9) Socks (see para 20–24).
(10) Undershirt (see para 20–28f).


b. The variations of the white mess uniform consist of:

(1) The Army white mess uniform comprises the Army white jacket, black high-waisted trousers, white semiformal
dress shirt with a turndown collar, black bow tie, and black cummerbund (see figs 18–1 and 18–3).

(2) The Army white evening mess uniform comprises the Army white jacket, black high-waisted trousers, white formal dress shirt with a wing collar, white vest, and white bow tie (see fig 18–2).

18-3: Accessories

The following accessories are normally worn with the male white mess uniform.

a. Buttons (see para 20–4).
b. Cape (officers only) (see para 20–5).
c. Coat, black, all-weather (see para 20–7).
d. Cuff links and studs (see para 20–9).
(1) Gold (white mess only) (see para 20–9b (2)).
(2) White (white evening mess only) (see para 20–9b (1)).
e. Gloves (see para 20–11).
(1) Black, leather, unisex, dress (only when the black all-weather coat is worn) (see para 20–11b).
(2) White, dress (see para 20–11c).
f. Neckties (see see para 20–18).
(1) Black, bow (white mess only) (see para 20–18a).
(2) White, bow (white evening mess only) (see para 20–18b).
g. Scarf, black (see para 20–21a).
h. Shirts, white (see para 20–22b).
(1) Semiformal, dress (see para 20–22d).
(2) Formal (see para 20–22e).
i. Shoes, oxford, black (see para 20–23).
j. Socks (see para 20–24).
k. Suspenders (see para 20–25).
l. Undergarments, white (see para 20–28)

18-4: Materials

The male white mess uniform will be made of the following:

a. White jacket and vest.
(1) Cotton twill, 8.2-ounce weight, white.
(2) Polyester and wool blend fabric in plain weave, 9-ounce tropical weight, white.
(3) Polyester and wool blend fabric in gabardine, 10.5-ounce weight, white.
(4) Polyester texturized woven serge, 6.5-ounce weight, white.

b. Trousers. Commercial, black, of a tuxedo-type lightweight material.

18-5: Insignia, accouterments, decorations, badges, unit awards and appurtenances

The following insignia and accouterments are authorized for wear on the male white mess uniforms:

a. Aiguillette, dress (officers only) (see para 21–27).
b. Insignia.
(1) Branch insignia (see paras 21–10 and 21–13).
(2) Grade insignia (see paras 21–5 through 21–7).
(3) Insignia representing regimental affiliation (see para 21–24).
c. Service stripes (enlisted personnel only) (see para 21–28).
d. Decorations and service medals, miniature (see para 22–8).
e. U.S. badges (combat and special skill, dress miniature, and ID) (see paras 20–16 and 20–17).

18-6: General guidelines

a. The white mess uniform is worn for black-tie functions and corresponds to a civilian tuxedo. The white evening mess uniform is the most formal uniform worn by Army personnel and corresponds to the civilian “white tie and tails.”

b. Personnel may wear the black dress gloves when wearing the black all-weather coat with these uniforms. Personnel may wear the white gloves with the basic uniform. The black oxford shoes with black socks are the only authorized footwear for these uniforms.

c. No headgear is authorized for wear by male personnel with the Army white mess or white evening mess uniforms because these uniforms are only authorized for wear after retreat (see AR 670–1).

18-7: Jacket, white mess, male

a. Design. The jacket will be made from an approved specification or pattern.

b. General description. The jacket, which is cut on the lines of an evening dress coat, descends to the point of the hips and is slightly curved to a peak in back and in front. Two 25-ligne buttons, joined by a small gold or gold-colored chain about 1 1/2 inches long, are worn in the upper buttonholes. The shoulders have a device for the attachment of shoulder knots on officer uniforms.

c. Shoulder knots. See paragraph 16–7d.

d. Jacket sleeve ornamentation.

(1) General officers wear a cuff of white mohair or mercerized cotton braid 4 inches in width, positioned 1/8 inch from the bottom edge of each sleeve. General officer grade insignia is centered on the outside of the sleeves, 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid. When general officers wear their branch insignia, it is centered on the outside of the sleeves, 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid. Grade insignia is positioned 1 inch above the branch insignia. If branch insignia is worn, general officers will wear the non-subdued, metal pin-on insignia. Grade insignia is embroidered white cloth or silver bullion. General officer stars are 1 inch in diameter and are worn with one point facing upward.

The following describes general officer stars:

(a) General insignia is four stars, with 1 1/4 inches between the midpoints, centered horizontally on the outside of the sleeves (see fig 18–4).

(b) Lieutenant general insignia is three stars, with 1 3/8 inches between the midpoints, with the middle star centered horizontally on the outside of the sleeves (see fig 18–5).

(c) Major general insignia is two stars, with 2 inches between the midpoints, centered horizontally on the outside of the sleeves (see fig 18–6).

(d) Brigadier general insignia is one star centered horizontally on the outside of the sleeves (see fig 18–7).

(2) Other commissioned and warrant officers wear a band of white mohair or mercerized cotton braid sewn on each sleeve, 1/2 inch wide, with the lower edge parallel to, and 3 inches above the bottom edge of each sleeve. A trefoil is attached to the upper edge of the braid on each sleeve. It consists of a knot composed of three loops, one large upper loop and two small lower loops of 1/4-inch white soutache braid, interlaced at the points of crossing, with the ends of the knots resting on the sleeve braid. Officer grade insignia (non-subdued pin-on or embroidered white cloth) is worn vertically in the center of the space formed by the lower curves of the knot and the upper edge of the braid (see figs 18–8 and 18–9).

(3) Previously authorized sleeve ornamentation, which consists of the sleeve band, the branch insignia centered in the space formed by the lower curves of the trefoil and the upper edge of the sleeve band, and the number of trefoils appropriate to the specific grade of the wearer, is authorized for wear for the life of the jacket. This option is for commissioned officers only, and it applies only to jackets purchased prior to 11 August 1975. This ornamentation is not authorized for jackets purchased after 11 August 1975.

(4) Enlisted personnel wear a 1/8-inch soutache braid of gold-colored nylon or rayon, 3 inches above the bottom of each sleeve (see fig 18–10).

18-8: Trousers, black

a. Design. The trousers will be made from an approved specification or pattern.

b. General description. The black trousers are cut along the lines of civilian dress trousers, with a high waist and without pleats, cuffs, or hip pockets.

c. Trouser leg ornamentation. The trouser leg ornamentation consists of a black silk or satin braid, no less than 3/4 inch wide, or more than 1 inch wide, sewn on the outside seam of the trouser leg, from the bottom of the waistband to the bottom of the trouser leg.