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AR 670-1: Chapter 16: Blue Mess Uniforms - Male

16-1: Classification

The blue mess uniforms authorized for wear are classified as:

a. The Army blue mess uniform (see para 16–2b(1)).
b. The Army evening mess uniform (see para 16–2b(2)).

16-2: Composition

a. The blue mess uniforms referred to in paragraph 16–1 consist of:

(1) Jacket, blue mess (see para 16–7).
(2) Trousers, blue mess (see para 16–8).
(a) Light blue.
(b) Dark blue (general officers only).
(3) Shirt.
(a) White, semiformal, dress, male mess (see para 22–21d).
(b) White, formal, shirt, male evening mess (see para 20–22e).
(4) Necktie
(a) Bow, black, dress or mess (see para 20–18c).
(b) Bow, white, evening mess (see para 20–18d).
(5) Vest, white, male (see para 20–29).
(6) Cummerbund.
(a) Black (see para 20–10).
(b) White (see para 20–10).
(7) Undergarments (see para 20–28).
(8) Shoes, oxford, black, male (see para 20–23c).
(9) Socks, dress black (see para 20–24b).
(10) Undershirt. (see para 20–28f).


b. The variations of the blue mess uniform are as follows:

(1) The Army blue mess uniform comprises the Army blue jacket, dark- or light-blue high-waisted trousers, white semiformal dress shirt with a turndown collar, black bow tie, and black cummerbund (see figs 16–1 and 16–3).

(2) The Army blue evening mess uniform comprises the Army blue jacket, dark- or light-blue high- waisted trousers, white formal dress shirt with a wing collar, white vest, and white bow tie (see fig 16–2).

16-3: Accessories

The following accessories are normally worn with the blue mess uniform.

a. Buttons (see para 20–4).
b. Cape (officers only) (see para 20–5).
c. Coat, black, all-weather (see para 20–7).
d. Cuff links and studs (see para 20–9).
(1) Gold (blue mess only) (see para 20–9b(2)).
(2) White (blue evening mess only) (see para 20–9b(1)).
e. Gloves (see para 20–11).
(1) Black, leather, unisex, dress (only when the black all-weather coat is worn) (see para 20–11b).
(2) White, dress (see para 20–11c).
f. Neckties (see para 20–18).
(1) Black, bow (blue mess only) (see para 20–18a).
(2) White, bow (blue evening mess only) (see para 20–18b).
g. Scarf, black (see para 20–21a).
h. Shirts, white (see para 20–22).
(1) Semiformal, dress (see para 20–22d).
(2) Formal (see para 20–22e).
i. Shoes, oxford, black (see para 20–23).
j. Socks, black (see para 20–24b).
k. Suspenders (see para 20–25).
l. Umbrella, black (see para 20–27).
m. Undergarments, white (see para 20–28).

16-4: Materials

The blue mess uniform will be made of the following:

a. Jacket.

(1) Wool barathea, dark blue, 14-ounce weight, Army shade 150.
(2) Wool gabardine, dark blue, 11- or 14.5-ounce weight, Army shade 150.
(3) Wool elastique, dark blue, 15-ounce weight, Army shade 150.
(4) Wool tropical, dark blue, 9-ounce weight, Army shade 150.
(5) Polyester and wool blend gabardine, dark blue, 9.5-ounce weight, Army shade 450.
(6) Polyester and wool blend fabric in plain weave, dark blue, 9.5-ounce tropical weight, Army shade 450.
(7) Polyester and wool elastique, 13.5 ounce, Army shade 450

b. Trousers.

(1) General officers. The trousers will be made in the same material and shade (dark blue) as the jacket.
(2) Other officers and enlisted personnel. The trousers will be made in the same material as the jacket, except the color will be light blue, Army shade 151 or 451.
(3) Braid. The gold braid on the trousers is 100% polyester produced by a certified braid supplier.

16-5: Insignia, accouterments, decorations, badges, unit awards and appurtenances

The following insignia and accouterments are authorized for wear on the blue mess uniforms:

a. Aiguillette, dress (officers only) (see para 21–27).
b. Insignia.
(1) Branch insignia (see paras 21–10 and 21–13a).
(2) Grade insignia (see paras 21–5 through 21–7).
(3) Insignia representing regimental affiliation (see para 21–24).
c. Service stripes (enlisted personnel only) (see para 21–28).
d. Decorations and service medals, miniature (see para 22–8).
e. U.S. badges (combat and special skill, dress miniature, and ID) (see paras 22–16 and 22–17).

16-6: General guidelines

a. The blue mess uniform is worn for black-tie functions and corresponds to a civilian tuxedo. The blue evening mess uniform is the most formal uniform worn by Army personnel and corresponds to the civilian “white tie and tails.”

b. Personnel may wear the black dress gloves, black scarf, and the black all-weather coat. Personnel may wear white gloves with the basic uniforms. The black oxford shoes with black socks are the only authorized footwear for these uniforms.

16-7: Jacket, Army blue mess

a. Design. The jacket will be made from an approved specification or pattern.

b. General description. The jacket, which is cut on the lines of an evening dress coat, descends to the point of the hips and is slightly curved to a peak in back and in front. Two 25-ligne buttons, joined by a small gold or gold-colored chain about 1 1/2 inches long, are worn in the upper buttonholes. The shoulders have a device for attaching shoulder knots on officer uniforms.

c. Lapels. The lapels of the Army blue jacket are rayon, acetate, or other synthetic fabric with a satin face in the following colors:

(1) General officers, except chaplains: dark blue.
(2) All chaplains: black.
(3) All other officers: the first-named color of their basic branch of service (see para 20–19).
(4) Enlisted personnel: dark blue.

d. Shoulder knots. (Officers only) (see fig 16–4).

(1) General description. The shoulder knot is made from 1/4 inch diameter cord, of gold bullion, synthetic metallic gold, or gold-colored nylon or rayon. The shoulder knot is formed of four plaits composed of three cords interlaced as one, and rounded at the top with a gold 20-ligne button positioned in the upper end of the knot. The knot is no more than 5 1/2 inches in length and 2 1/2 inches in width, conforming to the shoulder, and stiffened on the underside with a flexible backing, covered with dark blue or black cloth. The flexible backing has an attachment that is suitable for fastening it to the shoulders of the jacket (see fig 16–4).

(2) How worn. Officers wear the shoulder knots attached to the shoulders of the Army blue jacket.

e. Sleeve ornamentation.

(1) General officers wear a cuff of blue-black velvet braid 4 inches in width, positioned 1/8 inch from the bottom edge of each sleeve. A band of oak leaves in groups of two, 1 inch in width, are embroidered on each cuff of braid, 1 inch below the upper edge, in gold bullion, synthetic metallic gold, or gold- colored nylon or rayon. General officer grade insignia is centered on the outside sleeve 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid. When general officers wear their branch insignia, it is centered on the outside of the sleeves, 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid.

Grade insignia is positioned 1 inch above the branch insignia. If branch insignia is worn, general officers will wear the nonsubdued, metal pin-on insignia. Grade insignia is embroidered silver bullion. General officer stars are 1 inch in
diameter and are worn with one point facing upward.

The following describes general officer stars:

(a) General insignia is four stars, with 1 1/4 inches between the midpoints, and with the stars centered horizontally on the outside of the sleeves (see fig 16–5).

(b) Lieutenant general insignia is three stars, with 1 3/8 inches between the midpoints, and with the middle star centered horizontally on the outside of the sleeves (see fig 16–6).

(c) Major general insignia is two stars, with 2 inches between the midpoints and with the stars centered horizontally on the outside of the sleeves (see fig 16–7).

(d) Brigadier general insignia is one star centered horizontally on the outside sleeves (see fig 16–8).

(2) Other commissioned and WOs wear a 3/4 inch braid consisting of two 1/4 inch, two-vellum gold, synthetic metallic gold, or gold-colored nylon or rayon braids, placed on each sleeve 1/4 inch apart on a silk stripe of the firstnamed color of their basic branch. The bottom of the braid is positioned parallel to, and 3 inches above, the bottom edge of each sleeve. A trefoil is attached to the upper edge of the braid on each sleeve. It consists of a knot composed of three loops, one large upper loop and two small lower loops of 1/4 inch gold, synthetic metallic gold, or gold colored braid, interlaced at the points of crossing, with the ends of the knots resting on the sleeve braid. Officer grade insignia (nonsubdued pin-on or embroidered silver bullion) is worn vertically in the center of the space formed by the lower curves of the knot and the upper edge of the braid (see figs 16–9 and 16–10).

(3) Previously authorized sleeve ornamentation (which consists of the sleeve band, the branch insignia centered in the space formed by the lower curves of the trefoil and the upper edge of the sleeve band, and the number of trefoils
appropriate to the specific grade of the wearer) is authorized for wear for the life of the jacket. This option is for commissioned officers only, and it applies only to jackets purchased prior to 11 August 1975. This ornamentation is
not authorized for jackets purchased after 11 August 1975.

(4) Enlisted personnel wear a 1/8 inch soutache braid of gold-colored nylon or rayon, 3 inches above the bottom of each sleeve (see fig 16–11).

16-8: Trousers, Army blue mess

a. Design. The trousers will be made from an approved specification or pattern.

b. General description. The blue trousers are cut along the lines of civilian dress trousers, with a high waist and without pleats, cuffs, or hip pockets. Personnel will wear only the high-waisted trousers with these uniforms. Suspenders are authorized for wear, but they may not be visible when worn.

c. Trouser leg ornamentation. The trouser leg ornamentation consists of an ornamental braid worn on the outside seam of the trouser leg, from the bottom of the waistband to the bottom of the trouser leg, as follows:

(1) General officers have two, 1/2 inch, two-vellum gold, synthetic metallic gold, or gold-colored nylon or rayon braids, spaced 1/2 inch apart.

(2) All other officers and enlisted personnel have one, 1 1/2 inch, two-vellum gold, synthetic metallic gold, or goldcolored nylon or rayon braid.