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AR 670-1: Chapter 19: White Mess Uniforms – Female

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19-1: Classification

Personnel normally wear these uniforms from April to October, except in clothing zones I and II, where they may wear them year-round (see CTA 50–900).

The female white mess uniforms are authorized for wear by all females and are classified as:

a. The Army white mess uniform (see para 19–2b(1).
b. The Army all-white mess uniform (see para 19–2b(2).
c. The Army white evening mess uniform (see para 19–2b(3).

19-2: Composition

a. The female white mess uniform is comprised of:

(1) Jacket, white mess, female (see para 19–7).
(2) Skirt.
(a) White, knee-length (see para 19–8a).
(b) Black, knee-length (see para 19–8b).
(c) Black, full-length (see para 19–8c).
(3) Shirt, white, formal, female mess (see para 20–22b).
(4) Neck tab, black, dress (see para 20–17).
(5) Cummerbund.
(a) Black (see para 20–10a).
(b) White (see para 20–10b).
(6) Shoes.
(a) Pumps, black (worn with white mess and evening white mess only) (see paras 20–23f and g).
(b) Pumps, white (worn with all-white mess only) (see paras 20–23f and g).
(7) Stockings, sheer (see para 20–24d)
(8) Undergarments.
(9) Undershirt.

b. The three variations to the Army female white mess uniform consist of:

(1) The Army white mess uniform comprises the Army white jacket, the Army black knee-length skirt, the black cummerbund, and the formal white blouse with black dress neck tab (see fig 19–1).

(2) The Army all-white mess uniform comprises the Army white jacket, the Army white knee-length mess skirt, white cummerbund, and the formal white blouse with black dress neck tab (see fig 19–2).

(3) The Army white evening mess uniform comprises the Army white jacket, Army black full-length skirt, black cummerbund, and formal white blouse with black dress neck tab (see fig 19–3). Figure 19–3 shows the Army white evening mess uniform with the old version of the white mess jacket.

19-3: Accessories

The following accessories are normally worn with the female white mess uniform

a. Buttons (see para 20–4).
b. Capes (officers only).
(1) Black (see para 20–5a).
(2) Blue (see para 20–5b).
c. Coat, black all weather (see para 20–7).
d. Gloves.
(1) Black, leather, unisex, dress (only when the black all-weather coat is worn) (see para 20–11b).
(2) White, dress (see para 20–11c).
e. Handbags.
(1) Black, dress (carried with white mess and evening mess only) (see para 20–12b).
(2) White, dress (carried with all-white mess only) (see para 20–12c).
f. Umbrella, black (see para 20–27).

19-4: Materials

The female white mess uniform is made of:

a. White jacket and skirt.

(1) Polyester and rayon blend fabric in gabardine weave, 6- or 8-ounce weight, Army white.
(2) Texturized polyester serge, 6.5-ounce weight, Army white.

b. Black skirt, knee and full length.

(1) Wool tropical, 8.5-ounce weight, Army black shade 149.
(2) Polyester and wool blend fabric in tropical weave, 10-ounce weight, Army black shade 332.

19-5: Insignia, accouterments, decorations, badges, unit awards and appurtenances

The following insignia and accouterments are authorized for wear on the white mess uniforms:

a. Aiguillette, dress (officers only) (see para 21–27).
b. Insignia.
(1) Branch insignia (see paras 21–10 and 21–13).
(2) Grade insignia (see paras 21–5 through 21–7).
(3) Insignia representing regimental affiliation (see para 21–24).
c. Service stripes (enlisted personnel only) (see para 21–28).
d. Decorations and service medals, miniature (see para 22–8).
e. U.S. badges (combat and special skill, dress miniature, and ID) (see paras 20–16 and 20–17).

19-6: General guidelines

a. Personnel will wear knee-length mess skirts no longer than 1 inch above or 2 inches below the crease in the back of the knee. The evening mess skirt is worn full length.

b. Personnel may wear the black dress gloves when wearing the black all-weather coat. Personnel may wear white gloves with all uniforms.

c. The black pumps with sheer stockings are the only authorized footwear for the white mess and white evening mess uniforms. The white pumps with sheer stockings are the only authorized footwear for the all-white mess uniform.

d. There are two versions of the Army white jacket. The older version of the jacket is authorized for wear by officers only. The newer version of the jacket is authorized for wear by all females. Officers may continue to wear the older version jacket as long as it is serviceable.

e. No headgear is authorized for wear by female personnel with the Army white mess, all-white mess, or white evening mess uniforms because these uniforms are only authorized for wear after retreat (see AR 670–1).

f. The black cummerbund is worn with the white mess and white evening mess uniforms. The white cummerbund is worn with the all-white mess uniform. The cummerbund is worn with the pleats facing down. Females who possess cummerbunds made from previously authorized materials may continue to wear them for as long as they are serviceable.

19-7: Jacket, white mess, female

a. Old version. The jacket is single breasted with a natural-waist length and a shawl-type collar. It has a two-piece front, and a two-panel back. The front pieces have three 20-ligne buttons on each side, and the shoulders have two loops for the attachment of shoulder boards. Each sleeve has a band of white braid, 1/2 inch in width, with the lower edge of the band 3 inches from the bottom of the sleeve.

(1) Shoulder ornamentation and insignia, old version jacket (officers only).

(a) General officers. Detachable shoulder knots are worn on each shoulder. A description of shoulder knots is provided in paragraph 16–7d.

(b) Other officers. Detachable shoulder boards are worn on each shoulder, snapped to the jacket through the shoulder loops, with the square end of the shoulder board positioned on the outside shoulder seam. A general description of shoulder boards is in paragraph 20–8c of this pamphlet.

(2) Jacket sleeve ornamentation and insignia, old version jacket.

(a) General officers wear a cuff of white mohair or mercerized cotton braid 4 inches in width, positioned 1/8 inch from the bottom edge of each sleeve. General officer grade insignia is centered on the outside sleeves, 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid. When general officers wear their branch insignia, it is centered on the outside of the sleeves, 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid. Grade insignia is positioned 1 inch above the branch insignia. If branch insignia is worn, general officers will wear the non-subdued metal pin-on insignia. Grade insignia is embroidered white cloth or silver bullion. General officer stars are 1 inch in diameter, with one point facing upward (see figs 19–4 through 19–7).

(b) Other officers wear a band of white mohair or mercerized cotton braid, 1/2 inch wide, with the lower edge parallel to, and 3 inches above the bottom edge of each sleeve.

b. New version. The jacket is cut along the natural waistline and is slightly curved to a peak in back and in front. The coat has a shawl collar with white, self-fabric facing, and is fully lined with an inside vertical pocket on the right side. The coat front has six gold 20-ligne buttons. Two 20-ligne buttons, joined by a gold or gold-colored chain about 1 1/2 inches long, are worn in the upper buttonholes.

(1) Shoulder ornamentation. Officer’s jackets have a device for the attachment of shoulder knots. A description of the shoulder knots is provided in paragraph 16–7d.

(2) Sleeve ornamentation.

(a) General officers wear a cuff of white mohair or mercerized cotton braid 4 inches in width, positioned 1/8 inch from the bottom edge of each sleeve. General officer grade insignia is centered on the outside of the sleeves, 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid. When general officers wear their branch insignia, it is centered on the outside of the sleeves, 1 inch above the upper edge of the cuff braid. Grade insignia is positioned 1 inch above the branch insignia. If branch insignia is worn, general officers will wear the non-subdued metal pin-on insignia. Grade insignia is embroidered white cloth or silver bullion. General officer stars are 1 inch in diameter and are worn with one point facing upward.

(b) Other commissioned and warrant officers wear a band of white mohair or white mercerized cotton braid sewn on each sleeve, 1/2 inch wide, with the lower edge parallel to, and 3 inches above the bottom edge of the braid on each sleeve. A trefoil is attached to the upper edge of the braid on each sleeve. It consists of a knot composed of three loops, one large upper loop and two small lower loops of 1/4 inch white soutache braid, interlaced at the points of
crossing, with the ends of the knots resting on the sleeve braid. Officer grade insignia (non-subdued pin-on or embroidered white cloth) is worn vertically in the center of the space formed by the lower curves of the knot and the upper edge of the braid (see figs 19–8 and 19–9).

(c) Previously authorized sleeve ornamentation, which consists of the sleeve band, the branch insignia centered in the space formed by the lower curves of the trefoil and the upper edge of the sleeve band, and the number of trefoils appropriate to the specific grade of the wearer, is authorized for wear for the life of the jacket. This option is for commissioned officers only, and it applies only to jackets purchased prior to 11 August 1975. This ornamentation is not authorized for jackets purchased after 11 August 1975.

(d) Enlisted personnel wear a 1/8-inch soutache braid of gold-colored nylon or rayon 3 inches above the bottom of each sleeve (see fig 19–10).

19-8: Skirts, white mess

a. The all-white mess uniform skirt is a white knee-length skirt, with a one-panel front and four-panel back of straight design, with a waistband and a zipper closure on the left side.

b. The white mess skirt is a black knee-length skirt, with a one-panel front and a four-panel back of straight design, with a waistband and a zipper closure on the left side.

c. The white evening mess skirt is a black full-length skirt, with a one-panel front and four-panel back of straight design, with a waistband, a zipper closure on the left side, and an overlapped center back pleat.